first a lil background
i found this bike in a basement 7 years ago
i couldnt get it running then so it sat

i just pulled it out for the summer to try and get it running

we got it running reliably but it needs some tuning

the bike wont kickstart...it will if you have a seisure on the lever
but anything short of that and she's a no go

i can pop start it on my hill but that diff

once its running it is good, and i think i got the charging working for the new batt

problem is there cold or warm starts

i have cleaned the carb and tank and am using fresh gas

all these utube videos of starting in one kick really bumm me out

i have run it around everything seems to be smooth

any ideas maybe, timing or like one person suggested is a primer

would that be like a boaat gas tank primer ball?

thanks in advance
-mike

edit: the odo reads 01051 and the bike doesnt apear to be 100k i think it has origional tires
its blue with a white strip 2 gauges, any other info needed just ask
also the fork vin tag reads ss#### is that it for a vin or are there more numbers elsewhere on the bike
i cannot find a frame or motor number and that seems kinda short for a vin

This post was last modified: 07-09-2009 05:22 PM by reagor.

Check the very small air passages in the carb. Sounds like they are plugged. After you kick it a few times, without it starting, is the plug "wet"? Also, when you cleaned the carb, how far did you go? Did you run a bread twist tie thru all the jets?

i would check compression also may be very low thats why when you roll it down a hill she pops off builds up comp just a thought but carb is good place to start it must be cleand really good check tank for dirt,rust ect this will scew a clean carb ina hurry

This post was last modified: 07-09-2009 08:19 PM by sugarplum247.

what is ideal compression i think im getting somewhere around 50-60lbs
if jets were colgged wouldn't it not run right once it was started
i thought i cleaned the tank good but ill check again i agree with the rust idea

side note i got a batt from napa its 6v but smaller than the origional batt and fits loose
do you think if i put a capacitor in there in parallel it'll give the system a lil more juice for the starting,

kinda like stereo guys use to stop headlights from dimming when the bass hits

it doesnt need a capacitor from factory so id say no 3 thing spark,fuel,compression if all 3 of these are good it will start easy not sure on specs for compression but i believe mine is around 100lbs check compression again and leave your tester on it for 15-20 min see if pressure bleeds off if not then give it a squirt of oil in cylinder and see if compression goes up if compression raises considerably then you need to check rings and vavles also check timing you can static time it but then check with timing light to be sure your on the money then check spark to make sure your good there nice blue spark even change plug if it gets gas fouled they are usualy junk if all this is good then id go back to carb but it sounds like your getting fuel when you bump start and runs id check these items next mike

so i just got done tinkering with her...i cant check the bleed down but my compression gauge has a check valve, after a few kicks i get about 90 psi
so i went to the carb, pulled the low idle meter screw out and cleaned it up
reinstalled it all the way in and back out 1.75 turns as per my manual also took
some mig wire and fished the openings i could get to, set the idle screw all the way in with the throttle all the way open(out of the way) and she popstarts right up now so im getting closer, it used to be hit or miss with the pop start
while it was running i noticed the valvecover was dripping i took it off to find the threads pulled out on the lower stud...awsome

oh ya she holds an idle now too before you had to stay on the gas to keep it running

can i just replace the paper gasket wth silicone, and do you think a helcoil would be sufficient for a repair

i also squirted some oil into the cylinder and kicked it slowly and added tome carb cleaner to about 2 gal of gas in the tank,

ill keep ya posted i have tomorrow off so im gonna play with her

anyone know where i can get a headlight bolb and brake light bulb
or part numbers for napa?
-mike

sounds like your getting closer helicoil should be ok for that since there is not alot of tork on those bolts id get some gasket material and make a new gasket instead of silicone

Silicone is bad news around an engine. Gas and oil break it down and then it goes in places where you don't want it.
A paper gasket is best. Locktite makes a form-a-gasket that is real good.
Good luck
Tom

You can use a helicoil or just use JB weld to put the stud back in. I have done both and have no preference. Black or grey silicone works great for the cover. I do not use a manufactured gasket there and mine does not leak a single drop. Make sure you use a torque wrench. Always. NAPA can get you both lights. Take the old one in or measure it. Taillight is an 1154, I believe.

I used that "form-a gasket" and it never got hard. It stayed like jello. You should not use blue silicone as that will float around and does not stick well to aluminum, IMHO. I have used the grey and black with good results.